This post does contain affiliate links. These are my own thoughts and opinions about this product review.
Have you ever tried Furls Whims Merino Yarn? Did you know that come in 2 different types — DK (double knit) and Worsted Weight??
Click Image to Shop Furls Products
When, I first introduced myself to Furls Crochet, it’s been like almost 5yrs, my eyes were just completely set on this luxurious yarn. I kept telling myself over and over, you need to get yourself some and try it out.
Well …. I got the opportunity finally and I literally love it so much. But, the saddest news is that it has been discontinued, sad drop face, I know. 12/2021 last year is when Furls Crochet decided to let it go, to make more room for newer products coming. But, literally you can still purchase it in their CLEARANCE section on their website HERE.
This yarn is available at affordable price of $7.00, which where it was at $10.00 per skein. Many many beautiful colors to choose from. This luxurious yarn is perfect for all designs/makes you’re ready to put on your hooks, ranging from:
Garments: sweaters, cardigans, pullovers, tee shirts, crop tops or ponchos
“Beautiful and bouyant Z-Twist Crochet Yarn for better drape and better crocheted stiches. This gorgeous 50/50 blend of Fine Superwash Merino & Nylon yarn is perfect for crocheters looking to make sumptuous garments, soft toys, and superbly structured blankets. It’s unique ply will also prevent split stitches and make crocheting easier!”
It has a sturdy feel, making it impossible to in unravel, if you’re making those market bags. With the nylon twined with the fine superwash merino, will with stand all heavy items you are carrying. But, if you are making those delicate garments, it will feel perfect against your skin, provide you warmth and you will be a show stopper.
When I wear or use what I make with this yarn, I literally get people asking me, “Did you make that?” I always respond, yes I did and I didn’t buy it. This was manufactured from my two hands, with this beautiful yarn of 50/50 fine super wash merino and nylon, making it sturdy and holds it shape, for years to come and be worn always.
Do not tumble dry, Dry clean (except trichloroethylene)
DK
3.5oz (100g) – 200 yards (182m)/skein
Light (3) weight yarn, 4 – 5.5mm hooks suggested
16 sc across X 20 rows = 4x4in (10x10cm)
WORSTED
100g (3.5oz), 120 yds (109m)/skein
Medium (4) weight yarn, 5.5 – 6.5mm hooks suggested
12 sc across X 18 rows = 4x4in (10x10cm)
Whims Merino works up into a beautifully bouyant and superbly structured texture.”
I literally have found a joy and pure love for this yarn. It’s fast to work up and literally slides effortlessly through your finger like butter. Making all your creations/makes, look like you purchased them from a High Top End Store, but what they don’t know is that you made them with your own hands using this incredible Furls Crochet Z-Twist Whims Merino Yarn.
Showcasing that stitch definition. Click Image to Shop Furls Products
I myself, could use this yarn over and over again. Also, if you are wearing a beanie made this yarn, I can tell that it will go back to its original form, not leaving it stretched out. It has a elastic feel, that will hold to its shape over time of wearing.
I got the opportunity to design a one skein design for Furls Crochet and got to use this yarn for it. I designed a beanie in Adult Size Only in DK lightweight Mustard. This beanie is made brimless, but you can wear it with a brim by rolling up the bottom to even give it a fitted feel it or simply wear it brimless to have a more slouchy beanie.
Link and photo provided below 👇🏻 to snag it. Quick and easy to work up.
Lorene Eppolite of cre8tion.com wearing the Simple and Rustic Ridge Beanie. Stying it brimless or brim.
I was also provided yarn for another design and for this blog review from Furls Crochet, in colors Charcoal and Light Grey. I designed another beanie inspired for my love of my favorite Disney Villain, Cruella DeVille. I am busy writing up the pattern and can’t wait to share it with you all.
Cruella Got Her Spots Beanie, by myself and coming soon
I also started another project using Furls Whims Merino DK Mustard, to create a pouch for all my hooks and notions for my project bag. Showcasing how this yarn literally makes your stitches pop into WOW-Factor.
Super Star Notions Pouch, available on crochetfoundry.com for purchase. Click Image to Shop Furls Crochet products
I also have a pack of Charcoal and Light Grey in DK, that I am going to be making a garment to be worn all year round. It will be gender friendly, so everyone can enjoy it. So … stay tuned for that day.
I am also hoping to purchase more of this yarn, before it’s slips away forever. Which, makes my heart sad to say this. I literally can use this yarn over and over for all my designs.
So, I urge you to head to the Furls Crochet website, in the clearance section to purchase this luxurious yarn. You will not be disappointed I promise you that.
This post does contain affiliate links. Which, at no extra cost to you, I will receive a small commission, through the purchase you make.
Are you fan of handmade decor? Are you a fan of horror movies? Are you a fan of making handmade pumpkins, to add to your collection?
Well … the wait is over. My first pumpkin design is officially ready to be made and placed in your handmade decor collection. I wanted to bring the horror movie fan out of me, so I designed this pumpkin. Featuring, the gory details from when someone in the movies has died.
I know that sounds morbid and horrible, but that is what horror movies are about. Am I right. The first one I seen was Chucky, as he is carrying around that bloody knife. Than, I moved onto to Halloween with Micheal Myers, The Nightmare On Elm St with Freddy Kruger and Friday The 13th with Jason. These were my inspiration and brought it to life.
My Husband was also my inspiration through this design, as well. He thought it would be amazing if I made pumpkins, to put them out on display and a little handmade decor to the house.
We make up horrors to help us cope with the real ones.
Stephen King
Click Image to Shop Furls Crochet. Get yourself some new hooks, yarn or tools.
Design
This design uses Tapestry Crochet through Half Double Crochet, creating the blood illusion and the dripping of the blood. You make a rectangle, seaming the 2 ends together to form a tube, turning inside out. Cinch the bottom close, stuff it and cinch the top closed. Warping yarn around to form the bumps look-a-like on a pumpkin, with the blood looking like it’s oozing out from the top to the bottom. Grab a cinnamon stick or a stick from your yard, to give it that life like stem.
Yarn
This pattern, I wanted to use a more heavier and sturdier yarn, to create this pumpkin. I had some Yarnspirations Red Heart Yarn Super Saver in White and Cherry Red, I just knew these two were perfect. They are a Worsted Weight No. 4, 100% acrylic yarn, perfect to bringing this fun Hallorror to life.
Click Image to Shop Furls Crochet Spooky Pale Moon Ebony Hook
Hook
I love my Furls Crochet Streamline Swirl Hooks, which I used for this design, in my H (5mm) size. They have a lightweight feel, while you are busy stitching away. They have the perfect grip, making me crochet for longer, while not making my hands cramp up.
Click Image to Shop Furls Crochet Streamline Swirl Hooks Pin it to your board, to read/make for later
This pumpkin will give you all the spooky and creepy vibes, giving you the most SPOOKTACULAR Halloween ever. Hope you enjoy this gory pumpkin.
Now, let’s get into this …
Click Image to Shop Furls Crochet
Skill Level: Beginner +
Gauge
16 HDC x 10 rows = 4” square
Measurements
Length before seaming: 10”
Width before seaming: 5”
Finished Measurements
Width: 5”
Length: 5”
Materials
~ Hook: H (5.0mm) or to obtain gauge
~ Yarn: Worsted Weight No. 4 in any type, using White and Red ~ 50 – 60yds total
Notions
Scissors
Tape Measure
Stitch Marker (optional)
Tapestry Needle (weaving and cinching)
Polyfil (~ 2 handfuls for stuffing)
Stick or Cinnamon Stick
Glue Gun (optional)
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
Ch: chain
SC: single crochet
HDC: half double crochet
MC: main color
CC: contrasting color
R: row
St: stitch
(): stitch count
YO: yarn over
FO: fasten off
SpecialTechniques
Carrying the yarn: when you’re carrying your yarn and turning, after the second stitch, lightly pull not your working yarn tail to hide the opposite color yarn, so that it’s not too visible.
Changing Colors: there are so many tutorial videos out there on YouTube you can find, but this is how I do it. Before completing indicated stitch, let go of working yarn, YO and pull 2nd yarn through all loops on your hook, pull on the dropped yarn to tighten the stitch and locking it
Shaping Pumpkin: when wrapping yarn around pumpkin, make sure you pull tight to form the crease and the round bumps of a pumpkin. Make you sure you warping evenly.
Notes
This pattern uses US Crochet Terminology
Ch’s at the beginning of the row DON’T COUNT AS STITCHES
This pumpkin pattern is worked in turning rows
This pattern uses Tapestry Crochet, to create the blood illusion color work
Don’t FO any color, you will be carrying them both throughout
Pumpkin is worked as rectangle, taking the small ends and seaming them together to form a tube, cinch the bottom closed by weaving in and out, turn inside out, stuff it, cinch the top closed by weaving in and out, than shape the pumpkin
When stuffing, you don’t need to pack the stuffing in, I used about 2 handfuls, it will help keep the pumpkin to sit on its own
Red can be on top or bottom, that will be how you decide which one to cinch up first
You can either poke your cinnamon stick or stick in the top of your pumpkin or glue it with a glue gun
This is how the start of your pumpkin should look, before making it into a pumpkin. Click Image to Shop Furls hooks, yarn and tools.
Pattern Time ….
Time to start making your Oozy Bleeding Pumpkin. Gory HorrificInstructions below👇🏻
Start with MC and Ch21
R1: in 2nd ch from hook, place a HDC and in the next 8 Ch’s, switch to CC, HDC in the next 2 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the last 9 Ch’s (20)
R2: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the last 8 stitches (20)
R3: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, switch to CC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)
R4: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 12 stitches (20)
R5: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 7 stitches (20)
R6: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 14 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 6 stitches (20)
R7: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 2 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 9 stitches (20)
R8: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)
R9: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)
R10: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 12 stitches (20)
R11: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 7 stitches (20)
R12: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 14 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 6 stitches (20)
R13: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 2 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 9 stitches (20)
R14: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)
R15: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)
R16: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 12 stitches (20)
R17: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 7 stitches (20)
R18: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 14 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 6 stitches (20)
R19: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 2 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 9 stitches (20)
R20: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)
R21: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)
R22: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 12 stitches (20)
R23: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 7 stitches (20)
R24: Ch1 and turn, HDC tin the next 14 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 6 stitches (20)
Don’t FO. Move onto seaming.
Seaming
I used Single Crochet seam, for the toughness it provides holding them together. To keep it in the same colors, after finishing last row: don’t FO, keep carrying MC, SC through both ends of the first 6 stitches, change to CC, SC through both sides of the next 14 stitches, FO white about 5” long; FO MC, weave in red end.
This is what you will end up with after seaming and cinching bottom closed.
Cinch Bottom Closed
Now …. Take the CC, weave in and out of each stitch along the bottom, pull tight to close the bottom, tie a few knots to secure and turn pumpkin 🎃 inside out.
How bottom should look after cinching it closed. Bottom after cinching and before turning inside out
Now, Stuff your pumpkin here to the top.
Now … Let’s cinch the top close
Take about 6”-7” long yarn tail, inserting your yarn through the top of every stitch, start by weaving in and out along the top, coming the same stitch you entered, pull the yarn tail tight to close the top, tie 2 knots to secure and weave the tails in the pumpkin 🎃. Or you can simply make top hole a little tighter by weaving tails around and pulling it tight, tie a few knots to secure and weave those ends in.
How top should look after cinching it closed.
Now ….. Let’s shape the Pumpkin 🎃
You can warp around pumpkin 4-6 times, I chose to do 5 times.
Take a long tail about 30”-32” long, insert needle from the bottom of your pumpkin up through the top, warp the tail around, inserting back through the bottom through the top, warp again another 4 times inserting back through the bottom through the top, after the last one, bring your yarn back through the top to the bottom, tie 2 knots to secure, weave the tails into the pumpkin 🎃.
How pumpkin should look after warping around
Now …. You can add the final touch by placing a stick or cinnamon stick to the top or gluing it to stay in place.
Now, you can add a stick or cinnamon stick into the top hole or if the hole is a little tighter you can glue it. Click Image to Shop Furls Crochet hooks, yarn or tools.
Your New Oozy Bleeding Pumpkin 🎃 is completed. Now, Let’s see your horror inspired Pumpkin.
Thank you for taking the time to make this pattern. I really hope you enjoyed making it as much as I did creating it. Your support and love are appreciated.
Finished Oozy Bleeding Pumpkin. Click Image to Shop Furls Crochet hooks, yarn and tools.
When sharing, don’t forget to tag me on Facebook (@mandm.crochet) and Instagram (@mm_crochet17), using #mandmcrochet and #oozybleedingpumpkin, to have a chance to be featured on our stories or feed.
If you have any questions that may arise, please don’t hesitate to contact me at mm.crochet17@.icloud.com, I am here to help.
Please don’t copy or paste any portion of this pattern in parts or full, as it’s strictly prohibited. Please don’t recreate, redistribute, or sell this pattern off as your own, as it belongs to us. Please don’t reuse, recreate or sell any photos contained in this pattern, off as your own, as they belong to us. Don’t translate this pattern in another language without permission from us. Don’t use this pattern for any educational purposes without having permission from us. You may sell what you make from this pattern, but I do encourage you link back to our website: mm-crochet17.com, to credit us as the designer.
My latest design — Mountain Star Coasters, are a free pattern here on the blog.
Read through what inspired this design, keep scrolling down for the free pattern or you can simply purchase the inexpensive printable PDF here.
Mountain Star Coaster under my favorite mug.
“Embrace your placement. We can’t always chose what season of life we’re in, but we can determine what we do while we’re there.”
Unknown
—Inspiration—
This design came to me, when I was asked by @creativesundayapp if i would like to design something for them. They thought it would be really cool if i did a coaster, something people could use around the house, like a quick little cute project. But, they didn’t limit me to just make a coaster — it could have been anything.
I took that offer with a grace of God. Mind was racing around each bend, trying to grasp that perfect little stone to make and capture me. Thinking of something a little more sturdy, that would hold up for any occasion and not loose it’s shape over time.
Got my little hands busy, like working bees making their delicious honey. I wanted to capture, what I love the most – the outdoors of course. The design was under construction.
Using more of simple based stitches, so that it will be minutes rather than hours, to have your coasters ready for any adventure they will travel through. The center circle base is made with single crochets worked in a spiral (no joining) to create the lush valleys based below the high peaks. The border around the base is made with double crochets, picot stitches and chain2’s, made into a Star look, creating the high peaks towering into the clouds.
—The Yarn—
I got my mind thinking of the possibilities colors, weight and type. Should I use lightweight, worsted, bulky and even super bulky yarn.
I crossed the lightweight and super bulky of the list, that left me with worsted #4 and bulky #5. I know that i wanted to use 2 strands of one type, just to create a different color texture. I got to thinking, if i used 2 strands of bulky, that would make it more bulkier and take away from the vision.
Once, I grabbed 2 strands of worsted weight #4 yarn, it just felt right. It’s just like using bulky #5 yarn, but you get to choose different color combinations, by showing off your personality through your making process. But, you can also use Bulky #5 yarn as well with this pattern.
I chose to use Red Heart Yarn Super Saver in black and white (worsted weight 4). I went for a neutral feel to stay in the roots of this design and to showcase my personality as a person, so you can have feel more about me.
Feel free to shop here and browse through their selection to find your yarn, for your new project. They have many to chose from.
Are you ready for a quick, easy and versatile pattern? It uses simple stitches and 2 strands of yarn in any color to create the lush valleys and the high peaks for these beautiful crochet coasters to have on hand. They will add character to any room in your home and will be super awesome gifts for anyone—even the ones that love to go on adventures or explores.
—My Testers—
Each of my testers did a fabulous and an amazing job, bringing this pattern to what is now. So, I wanted to share there makes with all of you, so you can get color ideas.
Picot Stitch: ch4 and slip stitch back into the 1st ch made.
—Notes—
Pattern is written US Crochet Terminology.
If you aren’t comfortable with doing the MR, you can simply CH4 and slip stitch back into the 1st CH made and start with the 1stR of the pattern. Just know, that if you choose this method you will end up with a hole in the middle instead of a tight closed hole in the middle of your coaster.
Circle portion is worked in spiral and using a stitch marker to keep track of your 1st stitch as you continue with the pattern.
Don’t slip stitch or CH at the beginning of the SC R’s.
Before starting R7, you will remove the stitch marker and place a slip stitch in the next stitch.
The CH3 at the beginning of R7 does count as a DC.
Now, let’s dive into what you came here for: THE ACTUAL PATTERN.
Holding 2 strands of yarn in your choice of colors and start with a MR.
R1: place 6sc inside the ring. (6sc) Don’t slip stitch to your first stitch, instead place your stitch marker in the 1st stitch to mark it.
R2: place 2sc in each stitch. (12sc)
R3: SC in 1st stitch, 2sc in next stitch, *SC in next stitch, 2sc in next stitch.* (18sc)
R4: SC in each stitch. (18sc)
R5: SC in the 1st 2 stitches, 2sc in next stitch, *SC in next 2 stitches, 2sc in next stitch.* (24sc)
R6: SC in each stitch. (24sc)
Remove your stitch marker here and place a slip stitch in the next stitch. Make sure you give it a little tug, as it has bunched up a little bit, so that when you continue onto R7, it will flatten out a bit.
R7: CH3, place 2 more DC in the same stitch, CH2, place 3 more DC in the same stitch, SK a stitch, SC in next stitch, SK next stitch, place 3 DC in next stitch, Picot Stitch, place 3 more DC in same stitch, SK next stitch, SC in next stitch, SK next stitch, *place 3 DC in next stitch, CH2, place 3 more DC in same stitch, SK next stitch, SC in next stitch, SK next stitch, place 3 DC in next stitch, Picot Stitch, place 3 more DC in the same stitch, SK next stitch, SC in next stitch, SK next stitch,* Join to the top of the CH3. (36DC, 6SC, 3CH’s, 3 Picot Stitches)
Thank you for taking the time to make these beauties. Your continued support and love, it means a lot to me. If you aren’t already following us on social media platforms: (Instagram—mm_crochet17, Facebook—MandM-Crochet, and my website—mm-crochet17.com), give us a follow. When posting on Social media tag us and use the #mandmcrochet, to be featured in our stories or on the feed. Can’t wait to see what you come up with.
—Please Note—
Don’t copy and paste, sell, or redistribute this pattern in portion or full, as it belongs to us. Don’t recreate, sell or redistribute any photos contained in this pattern off as your own, as they belong to us. You may sell what you make from this pattern, my only request is that you tag back to my website for credit.
If you have any questions that may arise, don’t hesitate to contact me @ mm_crochet17@gmail.com
Sometimes when you’re in a dark place, you tend to think you have been buried; what if you’ve been planted? — Mindfully Glam
Wearing the Rising Hope Beanie
When, I was young my only dream was to be in the medical field. Being a nurse or a doctor was my only passion, I ever wanted to accomplish and become. A care taker was what blinded me. It was the only thing I wanted, it literally was in my blood, and tired fighting for it.
When, I was in middle school, I had this teacher tell me, “you are never going to achieve anything in your life, you just need to quit while you are ahead, your dreams are going to be nothing.” For the longest time this is what was embedded in my brain. I couldn’t let it go nor let it become me, because it did.
I ended up proving myself and my teacher wrong. It was what I wanted to do four the longest time. Graduated high school and even after 3yrs of my graduation, I even went to college. A moment that I am forever happy for and proud to have done. A moment I saw the light and path, that was for me.
It made me see that there was a light at the end of tunnel for me. I was in college for 3yrs, I got my CNA (certified nursing assistant), it was the best feeling in the world to see I accomplished something and pass on my love of life to other people.
I was a proud CNA for 2.5yrs and it was the only thing that made me happy in this life. That changed in 2016, my life and path changed. I let that piece of me go. It was the absolutely hardest for me to do. But, again there was another light in my tunnel that made me see another path in this life of mine.
It was a couple days after Thanksgiving of 2016, that I picked up my first hook and a ball of precious yarn. If you could what I made it was something else, but with the practice and teaching myself patience, I can say I love what I do and what I make. It was the best change I made for my life. I haven’t stopped since.
In the beginning of March 2017, is when I started MM_Crochet17. It was a tough start trying every turn I can make to get my name out there to people. I just never gave up and kept pushing myself to where I am today. Being apart of an amazing community of designers, which inspire me each day.
All the inspiration I have witnessed, this Beanie was brought forth for me like a phoenix rising from the ashes to be reborn. To rise and conquer my dreams for this journey I am on.
Inspiration
I made this beanie as a contribute to my life. That there is always hope and you have to believe in yourself, no matter what life throws in your journey. If things don’t work out, you stumble, and you get told “NO”, just remember it’s just a sign that it wasn’t your time at that moment, don’t let it stop you. Those are the things I think about every time my eyes meet with this beanie, you have to Keep Rising Hope and keep going. There is still Hope. There is still a chance for you, brush it off, now it just means you have to work harder for the next opportunity. This isn’t the end of my journey, I will get my time, but this beanie gives me this Hope I need to understand.
Where The Name Came From
I posted a picture, as a way to help me name this pattern, nothing was coming forth. A handful of people helped and came up with some names that were amazing, but one I saw just stood out from @ryanparkerdesigns
I just couldn’t pass this name up, the perfect piece to fit my own puzzle.
The Yarn
Trying many possibilities. Looking over so many types in my stash, but I just couldn’t decide what to use. After, a day went by, I got to thinking, I need to keep more on the neutral side, than for me trying to make it pop. So, I grabbed my Red Heart Yarn Super Saver in White and Ombré in Anthraciteand the colors just flowed through my vision. My color pallet was decided to design this pattern in the neutral state. The fiber choice for this pattern works best with Worsted Weight #4 yarn.
My Testers
I had some really amazing testers that brought this design more alive. They took this pattern to the next level, to help get where it is. I couldn’t have done without their skills, knowledge and expertise. So…. my thanks is to them.
If you have any questions or concerns, please don’t hesitate to contact me, I am here to help you out in any way I can. You can email me at mm.crochet17@gmail.com it’s the best way to reach out to me.
Continue on reading to the Free Pattern 👇🏻
Deets on the Pattern
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner➕
Measurements
W: 8” H: 9”
Size
Adult Size only
Gauge
Since… I used measurements gauge isn’t a crucial step here. Brim: 17” wide and 2” high, before seaming it together. Final Measurements for Beanie: 8” wide and 9” high (with Pompom).
Hooks
Brim: H/8 (5.0mm)
Body: K (6.5mm) or L/8 (8.0mm)
Dec Rows: I/9 (5.5mm)
Yarn
Worsted Weight #4 ~ 133-250yds ~ 2 or 3 different colors to capture the look of the stitches and textures. (You may use any type of yarn in the same weight.)
Other Materials Required
Stitch Marker (optional)
Scissors
Tape Measure
Tapestry Needle (weaving in ends and cinching)
Yarn or Faux Fur Pompom (optional)
Product Tag (optional)
Pattern Notes
US Crochet Terminology. (Please don’t translate into any other language without contacting me first to do so.)
The ch’s at the beginning of the row, don’t count as stitches. Also, ch3’s don’t count as stitches.
This pattern is worked from starting with the brim, body and then decrease rows, finally cinching top closed.
The brim is worked in rows by ch’ing and turning, before beginning the next row.
The DC (double crochet) for the first three stitches and last three stitches, are worked in the stitches and also around the ch3’s. While the rest of the double crochet’s of the row are worked into the ch3 space, not going into the stitches of the previous row.
Abbreviations/Stitches Used
Ch: chain
R: row
H: height
W: width
SC: single crochet
DC: double crochet
EXSC: extended single crochet
Dec: decrease
BLO: back loop only
SK: skip
**: to be repeated
YO: yarn over
FO: fasten off
Special Stitches
ExSC (extended single crochet): this stitch is completed just like that of the single crochet, the only difference is when this stitch is placed you will just pull up a little bit on your hook and yarn, to get that height. This stitch is also worked in each single crochet’s of previous rows.
Dec (decrease): there are several ways to make a decrease, the one I am going to explain here will simply be your traditional decrease. To begin, insert your hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, 2 loops on your hook, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, 3 loops on your hook, yo, pull through all 3 loops to complete your decrease.
Now Let’s Dive Right In…
Brim
Starting with your H (5.0mm) and ch8.
R1: sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in the remaining four ch’s. Ch1 and turn. (7)
R2: sc in the first stitch, sc in the BLO of the next 5ch’s, sc in the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. (7)
R3-65: repeat R2. (7)
After completing your last row, bring both ends together, simply slip stitch them together, and turn inside out (so your seam is on the inside). Your brim should measure 17” wide and 2” high.
How your brim should look!!
Body Of Beanie
Change to your K(6.5mm) hook.
R1: ch1, sc in each stitch evenly across the top of the brim, change to your second color, slip stitch to first stitch to join. (65)
How Brim and Row 1 should look
R2: ch1, sc in first stitch, sk next 3stitches, ch3, *sc in next stitch, sk next 3stitches, ch3,* sc in the last stitch, change to primary color, slip stitch to first stitch to join. (65)
How Row 2 should look when completed
R3: ch2, sk first stitch, dc in the next 3stitches and around the ch3 from previous row, *sk the sc from previous row, dc in the next 3stitches and around the ch3 from previous row,* sk the 2nd to last sc, dc in the last 3stitches and around the ch3 from previous row, sk last sc, change to second color, slip stitch to first stitch to join. (65)
How Row 3 should look when completed
R4: ch1, *ExSc in sk stitch from previous row, sk next 3stitches, ch3,* ExSc in the last stitch from previous row, change to primary color, slip stitch to first to join. (65)
How Row 4 should look when completed
R5: ch2, sk first stitch, dc in the next 3stitches and around the ch3 from previous row, *sk the sc from previous row, place 3dc’s in the ch3 space,* sk the 2nd to last sc, dc in the last 3stitches and around the ch3 from previous row, sk last sc, change to second color, slip stitch to first stitch to join. (65)
How Row 5 should look when completed
R6-17: Repeat rows 4&5. (65)
Brim-R17…. how it should look, with your K hookBrim-R7….. how it should look with using your L hook
R18: ch1, ExSc in the first stitch from previous row, sc in the next 3stitches, *ExSc in the next stitch from previous row, sc in the next 3stitches,* ExSc in the last stitch from previous row, change to primary color (FO second color), slip stitch to first stitch to join. (65)
Decrease Rows
Changeto your I/9 (5.5mm) Hook
R19: ch1, sc in each stitch, slip stitch to first stitch to join. (65)
R20: ch1, *sc in the next 3stitches, dec,* slip stitch to first to join. (52)
R21: ch1, *sc in the next 2stitches, dec,* slip stitch to first to join. (39)
R22: ch1, *sc in the next stitch, dec,* slip stitch to first stitch to join. (26)
R23: ch1, sc in each stitch, slip stitch to first stitch to join. (26)
FO and leave a long tail for cinching your beanie closed.
Cinching Up Your Beanie
You will be weaving in and out of each stitch. Once you get to end, begin pulling your yarn tight (not so tight that you don’t break your yarn, like I did), then simply tie a several knots to secure it. Weave in your ends and she is completed. At this point, you may add a Yarn or Faux Fur Pompom, it’s your choice.
Final Picture when completed with K hook and Faux Fur Pompom Final Picture when completed with L hook and yarn Pompom
You’re all done. I just want to thank you for taking the time and stopping by to make this Beanie. Your support and love, that you have for this craft is very appreciated and means everything to me, just to keep my inspiration alive and thriving, to keep creating for all of you. Again, Thank You.
Make sure you Pin This For Later, and if you make one I would love to see it, by tagging me on Instagram @mm_crochet17 using #risinghopebeanie and #mandmcrochet. I honestly can’t wait to see your Rising Hope Beanies and to share your work with everyone.
When you think that something wouldn’t work, but after many tries, the envision finally took place. I just wasn’t going to give up on this, not at all. Many rip it’s and rip it’s ran through this yarn. It’s just like life, when something doesn’t work and you think you have failed yourself, never give up, because trust me it’s there. Put it aside for the time being and pick it back up the day after. Trust me it will work.
If you know me the one things I am a sucker for are super chunky yarn, big hooks, and puffed stitches. They bring out the joy and happiness in my life. It makes me drool and wanting more. This yarn from Lion Brand Yarn in Hometown USA, was the perfect fit for this design and I couldn’t resist it, but you can use any super bulky #6 yarn that you have been eying. Plus, when I found my N hook from Boye Yarn Crafts my heart was in love at first sight. These two pairings are a dream come true. They make items that are super comfy, warm and squishy items, that just make my world a happy place.
I like big hooks and can’t lie. I like big yarn and I can’t lie. I like big puffy stitches and I can’t lie. These three sentences are all that go through my head, when I get to pick them up and work with them. It just makes me chuckle, while my husband just gives me a weird look each and every time. I look back and say, “What?” He tells, “I just love seeing you this happy with whatever you do.”
If you love super fast projects that work up quick, then you are going to enjoy making this. I wanted to incorporate stitches that were simple and easy to work. The single crochet is my best friend, as you can see it’s just a dream to work, as there isn’t much required knowledge. I then decided to add a little texture, by going into the back loop in the next two rows, to give the effect of a strike through. Which, gave its name.
When it came time doing my puff stitches, I wanted a little twist. Instead of doing the traditional puff with a ch1 to close it, I don’t close the stitch, as it groups each together. It just makes it easier for you to go into the stitch, plus gave it a more definite texture that speaks to me. Always love taking a twist and spin just to play on the textures.
One more thing to add before we get to the deets, this free crochet pattern comes as three patterns in one. Who doesn’t like that? I love it so much when this happens.
Difficulty/Skill Level
Beginner +
Yarn
Lion Brand Yarn Hometown #6 Super Bulky Yarn or any other comparable to recommended. (Beanie/Cowl ~100yds or 2 skeins) (Ear Warmer ~ 60yds or 1 skein)
Puff Stitch: yo, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, 3 loops on hook, yo, insert hook back into same stitch, yo, pull up a loop, 5 loops on your hook, yo, pull through all 5 loops, DON’T CH1, repeat.
SCFCH press here to watch a video from http://www.glamour-4-you.com, this really helped me for getting the hang of the foundation ch.
Measurements
Ear warmer: W-9″ H-4″
Cowl/Beanie: W-9.25″(second puff row) H-9″
Additional Notes
US crochet terminology used.
Ch’s don’t count as a stitch.
In the pattern below I have included three ways you can enjoy this pattern, just to have a little versatility to enjoy it.
If you aren’t comfortable with doing the SCFCH, you are more than welcome to ch36, join ch to the first ch (making sure you have no twist), ch1 and sc in same stitch and repeat across. Join to first stitch and carry on with r2 of the pattern.
Pattern
R1: 36SCFCH and join together.
R2: ch1, sc in the blo same stitch and each blo of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)
R3: repeat r2. (36)
R4: ch2, puff in the same stitch and each of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)
R5: ch1, sc in the same stitch and each of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)
R6: ch1, sc in blo the same stitch and each blo of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)
R7: repeat r6. (36)
Here you can FO if you could like to have it as an ear warmer or continue onto the Cowl or Beanie.
For making the Beanie, FO and leave a long tail for cinching the top closed. Now, grab your large eyed needle and thread it with the long tail still attached to your hat. You will be weaving your needle in and out every other front loop, when you get to the beginning, pull your yarn tight closing the top of your beanie. Tie a knot to secure it and weave in your ends. Here you may attach any kind of pompom you would like or you can leave it as is.
Thank you for taking the time to stop by and make this new addition. I really hoped you enjoy it and can’t wait to see what you come up with. Your support and love is really appreciative.
XOXOXO —MM_Crochet17
Please Note
This pattern is for personal use only. Please don’t copy or paste, resell, claim, or recreate any portion of this pattern, in full or sections as it belongs to me. Please don’t use, resell, recreate, or claim any picture as your own, as they belong to me. You may sell what you make from this pattern, but I encourage you to credit back to me as the pattern designer, by tagging my website (mm-crochet17.com), tagging me on social media by using @mm_crochet17 and #mandmcrochet on Instagram, on Facebook @MandM-Crochet.
