Posted on October 31, 2021November 7, 2021 by MM_Crochet17 — Leave a comment

Crescent Moon Appliqué — Crochet Pattern

Quick and easy make. A stash buster and scrap yarn project. Bringing the moon to your hands. Finally, you can say to everyone, you have the moon in your hands.

This post does contain affiliate links.

Have you ever made an appliqué before? Do you know what an appliqué is or what you can do with them?

There are so many appliqué patterns out there. They are a little project you can make, with less amount of yarn. They bring amazing characteristics to any make you are making or use them in the photos you capture.

Here are projects you can add them to:

Beanies
Bags of any kind
Cardigans
Cowls/Scarfs
Gloves/Mittens
Sweaters
Tee’s

They can bring them all together. These little items are just perfect to add, rather than, using tapestry crochet. You just simply add them by sewing them on or you can even crochet them onto your projects. Me personally, I love sewing them on.

I can honestly tell you this: this project is literally perfect for both and I made it this on purpose. Sometimes … things like the just happen and they did here.

Here is a little information about Crescent Moons and why they are my favorite and why I created them:

When the Moon appears early in its first quarter or late in its last quarter, only a small arc-shaped section is visible and illuminated by the Sun.

The orientation of the crescent Moon depends on the time of day, the season, and the viewer’s location.

During evening twilight, from January through March, in all of the northern temperate latitudes (from 25° to 50° north latitude, encompassing Canada, China, all of Europe, Japan, Russia, and the United States), the changing angle of the lunar orbit with respect to the horizon orients the crescent with its points, or horns, aimed upward, displaying a benevolent smile.
For the remainder of the year, the crescent appears sideways, like an archer’s bow.

At no time of night from any location on Earth does the Moon appear to be frowning; this occurs only around midday, in full sunlight.

The year-round view from the tropics is of a smiling crescent.

If you want to read more about Crescent Moons read them here: https://www.almanac.com/content/captivating-crescent-moon

Once you start, I can tell you that you won’t just stop at one moon. You will have a million moons.

Design

Halloween had been in my mind all month long. From watching all the horror movies, Halloween designs I have made and that eerie Halloween night when you can see the moon while Trick or Treating, the moon is hanging about you. I had yo captivate that feeling. To create that Crescent shape and moon like feeling, I can say it took me awhile, but settled on this one. You start with a chain, your first and last stitch are made in the actual ch’s, the stitches in between are made around the chain. Even, if you choose to make them right on your project, it will be the same sequence as not making them right on your project. I haven’t set a certain hook or yarn, because the hook or yarn will give you a small or x-large size moon. I will give you sample sizes in the hooks that I used so you get a feel.

Yarn

There is no exact yarn for this project. For the samples, I used a worsted weight 4 100% acrylic yarn, which is Red Heart Yarn Super Saver in White and Gold. It just had that more heavier feel I love to use and holds it shape, plus the colors are a wide spectrum that is endless. Feel free to use any yarn weight or type, you have on hand for these moons. Feel free to use any color from your favorite color or the yarn you have been wanting to use for a while now.

If you would like, shop a wide variety of yarn from the links below of my favorite yarn companies:

Click Image to Shop Furls Whims Merino Yarn in Dk and Worsted

Hook

I used my absolutely favorite and best hooks in the world for this design. I used my Furls Streamline Swirl Hooks. They are a medium lightweight hook, they float through yarn like frosting a cake. They glide with the yarn like a match made in heaven. They come in 11 different color styles and 10 different sizes. They are perfect for hands, not leaving them cramping and crocheting for hours, but they are totally Eye Candy, just as much.

Skill Level

Beginner +

Gauge

Gauge isn’t crucial to this pattern, as I have made it towards using any hook or yarn of your choice.

Measurements

~ Length — Tip to Tip: 1.5”

~ Width — middle stitch: 0.75”

Materials

Hook: Any Size
Yarn: any weight, any type and any color
Tape Measure
Scissors
Stitch Marker (optional)
Tapestry Needle (weaving in ends)

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

Ch: chain
Slst: slip stitch
SC: single crochet
HDC: half double crochet
DC: double crochet
TRC: treble crochet
BLO: back loop only
YO: yarn over
FO: fasten off

Special Stitches

HDC: to begin this stitch, YO, insert your hook into indicated stitch, YO, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), YO and pull through all loops on your hook

DC: to being this stitch, YO, insert your hook in indicated stitch, YO, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), YO, pull through first 2 loops (2 loops on your hook), YO and pull through last 2 loops

TRC: to begin this stitch, YO over twice, insert your hook into indicated stitch, YO, pull up a loop (4 loops on your hook), YO, pull through first 2 loops (3 loops on your hook), YO, pull through next 2 loops (2 loops on your hook), YO and pull through the last 2 loops

Pattern Notes

There are a few, as this a super quick and easy make.

Uses US Crochet Terminology
Ch’s don’t as a stitch
Instead of going in the actual Ch, you’re going around the base Ch’s
The size of your moons, all depends on the size of your hook and yarn you’re using
When you get closer to the end of the Ch, simply and lightly, push the stitches up on the Ch, to have more to complete the stitch sequence.
To measure your width: you’re just measuring the treble crochet, as they are the center of the moon
To measure your length: you’re going to start at the first sc to the Slst, which are the tips of the moon
I written this pattern in 3 different sizes all by the ch’s you start with. You get a more of a curve or a straight edge
You can make these Moons as a stand alone or right onto your project

Now …. Let’s start making MOONS

1st Moon:

Start by Ch8, in 2nd Ch from hook place a SC, place 2 HDC around the Ch, place 3 DC around the Ch, place 3 TRC around the Ch, place 3 DC around the Ch, place 2 HDC around the Ch, place a SC around the Ch, Slst into the first Ch made. FO and weave in your ends.

2nd Moon:

Start by Ch8, in 2nd Ch from hook place a SC, place 2 HDC around the Ch, place 2 DC around the Ch, place 3 TRC around the Ch, place 2 DC around the Ch, place 2 HDC around the Ch, place a SC around the Ch, Slst into the first Ch made. FO and weave in your ends.

3rd Moon:

Start by Ch7, in 2nd Ch from hook place a SC, place 2 HDC around the Ch, place 2 DC around the Ch, place a TRC around the Ch, place 2 DC around Ch, place 2 HDC around the Ch, place a SC around Ch, Slst into the first Ch made. FO and weave in your ends.

Attaching Your Moon …

Figure out on your make where you would like to attach your moon at. With that, cut a long piece of yarn, thread onto your needle, tie a knot on the bottom, with your moon in given place, sew your moon in place by simply going through the BLO’S along the edge of the moon, tie a knot to secure and weave in your ends.

Attaching Moon right on ….

Figure out where you would like to attach your moon. With that being said, attach your yarn with a Slst, simply follow the steps above for the type of moon you would like to make, after your last stitch you made, Slst it down, FO and weave in your ends.

Final Words ….

Thank you for taking the time to come here and checkout my latest design. Your support for my little crochet world is amazing and means a lot to me. Where, I can keep creating and bringing more designs. I literally can’t wait to see what you do with your new Crescent Moons and the colors you’re going to choose.

When sharing, don’t forget to tag me on Facebook (@mandm.crochet) and Instagram (@mm_crochet17), using #mandmcrochet and #crescentmoonapplique, to have a chance to be featured on our stories or feed.

If you have any questions that may arise, please don’t hesitate to contact me at mm.crochet17@icloud.com, I am here to help.

Disclosure

Please don’t copy or paste any portion of this pattern in parts or full, as it’s strictly prohibited. Please don’t recreate, redistribute, or sell this pattern off as your own, as it belongs to us. Please don’t reuse, recreate or sell any photos contained in this pattern, off as your own, as they belong to us. Don’t translate this pattern in another language without permission from us. Don’t use this pattern for any educational purposes without having permission from us. You may sell what you make from this pattern, but I do encourage you link back to our website: mm-crochet17.com, to credit us as the designer.

Posted on October 26, 2021October 26, 2021 by MM_Crochet17 — Leave a comment

Oozy Bleeding Pumpkin — Crochet Pattern

This post does contain affiliate links. Which, at no extra cost to you, I will receive a small commission, through the purchase you make.

Are you fan of handmade decor? Are you a fan of horror movies? Are you a fan of making handmade pumpkins, to add to your collection?

Well … the wait is over. My first pumpkin design is officially ready to be made and placed in your handmade decor collection. I wanted to bring the horror movie fan out of me, so I designed this pumpkin. Featuring, the gory details from when someone in the movies has died.

I know that sounds morbid and horrible, but that is what horror movies are about. Am I right. The first one I seen was Chucky, as he is carrying around that bloody knife. Than, I moved onto to Halloween with Micheal Myers, The Nightmare On Elm St with Freddy Kruger and Friday The 13th with Jason. These were my inspiration and brought it to life.

My Husband was also my inspiration through this design, as well. He thought it would be amazing if I made pumpkins, to put them out on display and a little handmade decor to the house.

Get inexpensive PDF Pattern 👇🏻

Oozy Bleeding Pumpkin Pattern

We make up horrors to help us cope with the real ones.
Stephen King

Click Image to Shop Furls Crochet. Get yourself some new hooks, yarn or tools.

Design

This design uses Tapestry Crochet through Half Double Crochet, creating the blood illusion and the dripping of the blood. You make a rectangle, seaming the 2 ends together to form a tube, turning inside out. Cinch the bottom close, stuff it and cinch the top closed. Warping yarn around to form the bumps look-a-like on a pumpkin, with the blood looking like it’s oozing out from the top to the bottom. Grab a cinnamon stick or a stick from your yard, to give it that life like stem.

Yarn

This pattern, I wanted to use a more heavier and sturdier yarn, to create this pumpkin. I had some Yarnspirations Red Heart Yarn Super Saver in White and Cherry Red, I just knew these two were perfect. They are a Worsted Weight No. 4, 100% acrylic yarn, perfect to bringing this fun Hallorror to life.

Great Substitute Yarn

Furls Wander Yarn; Furls Whims Merino Worsted Yarn; WeCrochet; KintPicks; Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Heartland Yarn

Hook

I love my Furls Crochet Streamline Swirl Hooks, which I used for this design, in my H (5mm) size. They have a lightweight feel, while you are busy stitching away. They have the perfect grip, making me crochet for longer, while not making my hands cramp up.

Pin it to your board, to read/make for later

This pumpkin will give you all the spooky and creepy vibes, giving you the most SPOOKTACULAR Halloween ever. Hope you enjoy this gory pumpkin.

Now, let’s get into this …

Skill Level: Beginner +

Gauge

16 HDC x 10 rows = 4” square

Measurements

Length before seaming: 10”

Width before seaming: 5”

Finished Measurements

Width: 5”

Length: 5”

Materials

~ Hook: H (5.0mm) or to obtain gauge

~ Yarn: Worsted Weight No. 4 in any type, using White and Red ~ 50 – 60yds total

Notions

Scissors
Tape Measure
Stitch Marker (optional)
Tapestry Needle (weaving and cinching)
Polyfil (~ 2 handfuls for stuffing)
Stick or Cinnamon Stick
Glue Gun (optional)

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

Ch: chain
SC: single crochet
HDC: half double crochet
MC: main color
CC: contrasting color
R: row
St: stitch
(): stitch count
YO: yarn over
FO: fasten off

Special Techniques

Carrying the yarn: when you’re carrying your yarn and turning, after the second stitch, lightly pull not your working yarn tail to hide the opposite color yarn, so that it’s not too visible.

Changing Colors: there are so many tutorial videos out there on YouTube you can find, but this is how I do it. Before completing indicated stitch, let go of working yarn, YO and pull 2nd yarn through all loops on your hook, pull on the dropped yarn to tighten the stitch and locking it

Shaping Pumpkin: when wrapping yarn around pumpkin, make sure you pull tight to form the crease and the round bumps of a pumpkin. Make you sure you warping evenly.

Notes

This pattern uses US Crochet Terminology

Ch’s at the beginning of the row DON’T COUNT AS STITCHES

This pumpkin pattern is worked in turning rows

This pattern uses Tapestry Crochet, to create the blood illusion color work

Don’t FO any color, you will be carrying them both throughout

Pumpkin is worked as rectangle, taking the small ends and seaming them together to form a tube, cinch the bottom closed by weaving in and out, turn inside out, stuff it, cinch the top closed by weaving in and out, than shape the pumpkin

When stuffing, you don’t need to pack the stuffing in, I used about 2 handfuls, it will help keep the pumpkin to sit on its own

Red can be on top or bottom, that will be how you decide which one to cinch up first

You can either poke your cinnamon stick or stick in the top of your pumpkin or glue it with a glue gun

This is how the start of your pumpkin should look, before making it into a pumpkin. Click Image to Shop Furls hooks, yarn and tools.

Pattern Time ….

Time to start making your Oozy Bleeding Pumpkin. Gory Horrific Instructions below👇🏻

Start with MC and Ch21

R1: in 2nd ch from hook, place a HDC and in the next 8 Ch’s, switch to CC, HDC in the next 2 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the last 9 Ch’s (20)

R2: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the last 8 stitches (20)

R3: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, switch to CC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)

R4: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 12 stitches (20)

R5: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 7 stitches (20)

R6: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 14 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 6 stitches (20)

R7: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 2 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 9 stitches (20)

R8: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)

R9: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)

R10: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 12 stitches (20)

R11: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 7 stitches (20)

R12: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 14 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 6 stitches (20)

R13: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 2 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 9 stitches (20)

R14: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)

R15: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)

R16: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 12 stitches (20)

R17: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 7 stitches (20)

R18: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 14 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 6 stitches (20)

R19: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 2 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 9 stitches (20)

R20: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)

R21: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 12 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 8 stitches (20)

R22: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 8 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 12 stitches (20)

R23: Ch1 and turn, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to CC, HDC in the next 6 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next stitch, change to CC, HDC in the next 7 stitches (20)

R24: Ch1 and turn, HDC tin the next 14 stitches, change to MC, HDC in the next 6 stitches (20)

Don’t FO. Move onto seaming.

Seaming

I used Single Crochet seam, for the toughness it provides holding them together. To keep it in the same colors, after finishing last row: don’t FO, keep carrying MC, SC through both ends of the first 6 stitches, change to CC, SC through both sides of the next 14 stitches, FO white about 5” long; FO MC, weave in red end.

Cinch Bottom Closed

Now …. Take the CC, weave in and out of each stitch along the bottom, pull tight to close the bottom, tie a few knots to secure and turn pumpkin 🎃 inside out.

How bottom should look after cinching it closed.

Bottom after cinching and before turning inside out

Now, Stuff your pumpkin here to the top.

Now … Let’s cinch the top close

Take about 6”-7” long yarn tail, inserting your yarn through the top of every stitch, start by weaving in and out along the top, coming the same stitch you entered, pull the yarn tail tight to close the top, tie 2 knots to secure and weave the tails in the pumpkin 🎃. Or you can simply make top hole a little tighter by weaving tails around and pulling it tight, tie a few knots to secure and weave those ends in.

How top should look after cinching it closed.

Now ….. Let’s shape the Pumpkin 🎃

You can warp around pumpkin 4-6 times, I chose to do 5 times.

Take a long tail about 30”-32” long, insert needle from the bottom of your pumpkin up through the top, warp the tail around, inserting back through the bottom through the top, warp again another 4 times inserting back through the bottom through the top, after the last one, bring your yarn back through the top to the bottom, tie 2 knots to secure, weave the tails into the pumpkin 🎃.

How pumpkin should look after warping around

Now …. You can add the final touch by placing a stick or cinnamon stick to the top or gluing it to stay in place.

Now, you can add a stick or cinnamon stick into the top hole or if the hole is a little tighter you can glue it. Click Image to Shop Furls Crochet hooks, yarn or tools.

Your New Oozy Bleeding Pumpkin 🎃 is completed. Now, Let’s see your horror inspired Pumpkin.

Thank you for taking the time to make this pattern. I really hope you enjoyed making it as much as I did creating it. Your support and love are appreciated.

Finished Oozy Bleeding Pumpkin. Click Image to Shop Furls Crochet hooks, yarn and tools.

When sharing, don’t forget to tag me on Facebook (@mandm.crochet) and Instagram (@mm_crochet17), using #mandmcrochet and #oozybleedingpumpkin, to have a chance to be featured on our stories or feed.

If you have any questions that may arise, please don’t hesitate to contact me at mm.crochet17@.icloud.com, I am here to help.

Posted on September 11, 2021October 11, 2021 by MM_Crochet17 — Leave a comment

Half Double Crochet, Stitch Tutorial

What is your favorite stitch? What is that one stitch you always and constantly use?

I can honestly tell that mine is the Half Double Crochet. I literally am always using it and finding a way to always incorporate it into anything I am making. It all goes by the texture and drape this stitch creates. It’s a very useful stitch, to create a little bit more of height. Once you get the hang of it, you will be sailing through anything you are making or creating.

I am always drawn to the versatility of this stitch. There are many different forms to use this stitch. Look at them below:

Extended Half Double Crochet
Camel Stitch
Herringbone Stitch
Cluster Stitch
Bobble Stitch

Just to name a few of them. I know that there are more, but these were just the ones that came to mind.

This stitch is perfect for any design you are creating. It makes for an extra amount of texture you are going for an extra amount of height. Also, this stitch is used in tapestry crochet to create beautiful art with multiple different colors of yarn.

SC (single crochet) height: ~0.40”

HDC (half double crochet) height: ~0.50”

Also, this stitch is part of the beginner friendly stitch pack. It’s the basic knowledge stitch, that will bring into more of the advance stitches, taking it a step further. Here are more of the other beginner stitches: slip stitch, single crochet, double crochet, and treble crochet.

Here are some designs that are perfect pairing for this stitch:

Amigurumi’s
Bags
Beanies
Blankets
Cardigans
Cowls
Scarfs
Sweaters
Ear Warmers
Mittens/Gloves

As you see this stitch, Half Double Crochet, is perfect for any project your ready to TACKLE.

Here is a little tip about this stitch: you are basically doing a single crochet, but you ARE YARNING OVER before going into your indicated, taking the single crochet a step further. More on that in a little bit below 👇🏻!!

Now, Let’s Get To It ….

Here is a little list of materials you will need to begin working this stitch:

Worsted Weight 4 Yarn, any color or type you are wanting to play with
Hook: any Size you fancy to play with

Shop Image to get your new Furls Streamline Swirl Hook, which are my favorite

Shop Furls Wander or Whims Yarn Here

Shop WeCrochet Yarn Here

Shop KnitPicks Yarn Here

Shop Lion Brand Yarn Here

To start chain an even number of chains +1 or 2

You will have 1 loop on your hook, YARN OVER, (2 loops on your hook) insert your hook into indicated chain or stitch, YARN OVER, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), YARN OVER and pull through all 3 loops on your hook

NOW, Lets do this again or a few times more

Keep repeating that same process until you reach the end

Once, you get to the end of that row or round, if you +1 or 2, before you begin your next round you will either chain 1 or 2 and turn , than begin that next row in the same stitch as the chain. You will simply be repeating that same process as instructed above.

This is what you will have when you are finished. Click the Image to Shop Furls Crochet

I can honestly tell you that, once you get the hang of this stitch you be sailing through all your makes or creations. Its a super fast and fun stitch to work with. Like, I mentioned above, once you get the hang of this classic beginner friendly stitch, take the time and go into the more advance stitches that take this stitch even further. Also, the Double Crochet and Treble Crochet, are fun as well and take this stitch even further. Stay tuned I will also give a stitch tutorial on those later on.

Thank you for stopping by and reading this. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and was helpful for you. As you can see, this is by far my favorite stitch.

Thank you for the support and encouragement, it is very much appreciated. Stay tuned for stitch tutorials that will be coming here on my blog.

Posted on July 28, 2021December 14, 2021 by MM_Crochet17 — Leave a comment

Ferris Wheel Coasters

Hello Everyone …. Bringing you another QUICK and EASY pattern.

Free Crochet Pattern, using up all your scraps or diving into your stash, to make these coasters.

Perfect to place under your favorite cup of coffee, your new favorite plants or use as a decorative piece.

Click Image to Shop Furls Streamline Hooks.

This post does contain *affiliate links. Which means, with each purchase you make through these links, I will receive a small commission, at no extra cost to you. A way to help support me, to keep bringing you more patterns. Thank you for continued support.

Keep scrolling down for pattern…

Grab the inexpensive ad-free pattern below 👇🏻

Purchase Pattern Here

Did you go to fairs as a child? What about amusement parks? What is your favorite ride? Or did you stay down on the ground, to just watch the excitement and eat the delicious food?

Fairs and amusement parks, were my enjoyment hands down. I can remember going there with my Grandparents every summer, it was always my special place and fantasy place.

Design

As a kid, I was a total adrenaline junkie and still am as an Adult. Lived for the rides. Especially the classic, Ferris Wheel. But, I could never, also pass up a good Roller Coaster either.

But, you find me on the FERRIS WHEEL. Riding it for hours and never bored.

Being able to get the highest point, to feel the light breeze on a hot summer day. Seeing the beautiful lights upon a great stary summer night. Just, the best feeling in the world.

So, I thought, why not create this memory in a keepsake piece. Bringing you a fun and decorative coaster, into your home or giving it as a gift to someone.

You won’t just stop at one, once you start, they multiply quick.

Yarn

Lately, I have been falling more in love with Caron Simply Soft Solids Yarn. This yarn has a sheen look to it and it’s super soft. It is 100% acrylic yarn and love the way how it works and the squish factor it gives off.

This yarn comes in multiple ranges of color. The 2 colors shown in these samples I used, Country Blue and DK Country. Each skein holds 315yds. I knew it would be the best fit for this pattern.

You may substitute for any other type of worsted weight 4 yarn. Furls Crochet has there Wander Yarn that would work with this as well and many great colors to choose from. You can also use cotton yarn as well.

Here are some other great yarns you could choose from as well for this pattern 👇🏻….

Materials

Hook: 4.5mm (I Love My Furls)

Yarn: Worsted Weight 4 (samples: I used Caron Simply Soft in Country Blue and DK Country) Approx yds: 60-80.

Notions

Scissors
Stitch Markers (optional)
Tapestry Needle (for weaving ends)

Skill Level

Beginner and beyond!!

Measurements

From Middle to Last Row: 2.25”
From Edge to Edge: 4.5”

Gauge

Inner to R2 = ~1”

Click Image to Shop Furls Hooks, Yarn Bowl and Needle Case

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

R: round
Slst: slip stitch
MR: magic ring
Ch: chain
DC: double crochet
TR: treble crochet
Bean: bean stitch
Sk: skip
YO: yarn over
FO: fasten off
**: to be repeated

Special Stitches

Bean Stitch: insert your hook into indicated stitch, YO, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo, insert hook back into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop (4 loops on your hook), YO, insert hook back into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop (6 loops on your hook), YO, pull through all 6 loops, Ch1 to close.

Magic Ring: need a little re-cap on using the magic ring, this video is very helpful — https://youtu.be/QMZpO5-19hQ or this video as well is helpful as well— https://youtu.be/J7GHTfXaz2E

Ferris Wheel Coasters pattern by me ©️2021

Notes

US Crochet Terminology
Basic knowledge for using DC, and TRC.
Ch1, Ch3, Ch4, and Ch5 counts as a stitch.
Ch1 at the beginning of R4 doesn’t count as a stitch. Ch1’s closing the Bean Stitch, don’t count as a stitch.
You will be sl-st at the end of each round.
After, completing your first round, pull your tail tight to close the ring.
After completing the second row, make sure to check your gauge. Also, weave in your tail here.

Now Let’s Begin …..

Pattern

Starting with your 4.5m Hook and a MR. (If uncomfortable doing the MR, simply Ch3, Sl-St to 1st Ch, and move onto R1. You won’t have tight closed hole with doing this.)

R1: Ch3, place 7 more DC inside the ring. Sl-St to top of Ch3 to join. (8DC)

R2: Ch4, DC in same stitch, *DC, Ch1, DC,*. Sl-St into the 3rd ch to join. Sl-St in to the ch1. (24) (16DC, 8ch1’s)

R3: Ch5, TRC in the same stitch, TRC into the space between the 2 DC from previous row, Ch1, place another TRC into same space, *TRC into the Ch1, Ch1, place another TRC into same Ch1,TRC into the space between the 2 DC from previous row, Ch1, place another TRC into same space,* place TRC into the space between the Ch and DC from previous row, Ch1, place another TRC into same space. Sl-St in to the 4th Ch to join. (47) (32TRC, 15Ch1’s)

R4: Ch1, Bean in the same stitch, sk the ch1, Bean in the next 2 stitches, sk the ch1,* Bean in the last stitch. Sl-St to first Bean to join. (32 Beans)

FO. Weave in your ends.

Ferris Wheel Coasters Pattern by Me. ©️2021 Click Image to Shop Furls Streamline Paduk Hook.

You just completed your new FERRIS WHEEL COASTER 🎡!!

Thank you’re for stopping by to make this design. I hope you enjoyed it and keeps you smiling ☺️!! Thank you 😊 for your support!!

Ferris Wheel Coasters by Me. ©️2021. Click Image to Shop Furls Streamline Hooks and grab yourself a new Ebony Hook (BOGO no code needed until 8/4).

Disclosure

Make sure to tag me on social media

Ig: @mm_crochet17

Facebook: @mandm-crochet

Use hashtag: #mandmcrochet

So, I can show off all your makes.

Please don’t copy or paste any portion or it’s entirety. Please don’t sell, claim or reuse any of photos containing in this pattern. You may sell what you make from this pattern, but I encourage you to credit back to my website (mm-crochet17.com).

Again, thank you for all your support. It means a lot. Now, off to design a new creation. xoxo

Posted on April 27, 2021 by MM_Crochet17 — Leave a comment

Back End Hook Pull Tutorial

This post does contain affiliate links. Where at no extra cost to you, I will receive a small commission, through the purchases you make. For a way to continue to support me along my journey.

Every Single Human is Creative and has Creative Potential. It’s like a muscle that needs to be worked.
Lisa Congdon

Do you hate how your hook keeps getting snagged? Do you hate how you always have redo your stitch?

Well, I can help with this little technique, it is a life saver.

This technique is perfect for any stitch. You can use any yarn of your choice. The secret 🤫 is how you turn hook, when going into the stitch. It’s almost like you’re a magician or a wizard with your trusty wand.

One night, I was working on a project for an order and wasn’t paying attention, went into my stitch the wrong way. I literally thought I completely did something wrong. My Husband looks at me and asked, “What’s the matter?”

I told him, “I think I just did something wrong.”

He was like, “what do you mean?”

I said, “The way I had my hook turned and did my stitch.” So… I did it again the same way as before and was a amazed. I didn’t do anything wrong, I created something new.

Pin It For Later

Now, I want to share it with y’all. It actually saves me time and no more having to redo three to four stitches at a time. All, because my hook snags onto the previous stitch or the yarn splits. It’s a true life saver, plus I get to do magic tricks while I am working away.

One thing to also know is …. It’s perfect for any stitch you’re working with.

Now Let’s Begin ….

Materials

Hook — Any size you enjoy (I like my Furls Hooks)

Yarn — Any Type you enjoy …. There is no limit. Simply pick through these below 👇🏻

Step 1: Instead of having your hook facing you, turn it the opposite way from you!!

Step 2: Yarn Over, insert hook into indicated stitch, before Yarn Over: twirl your hook back to face you, Yarn Over, pull up a loop and complete your stitch.

Click to watch how I perform this tutorial.

Thank you for taking the time to read this post.

I hope you enjoyed this technique. XOXOXO

Posted on June 4, 2020 by MM_Crochet17 — Leave a comment

Box Stitch Modification, Free Stitch Tutorial

Comparison kills creativity. There is room for you. Nobody can do it with your voice, with your experience, with your insight. — Karen Walrond

Rising Hope Beanie with L Hook and yarn Pompom

When I began this technique for this design, in my head I didn’t know what stitch I was making, it just came out this way. That envision just poured out and it was flowing in a way that I couldn’t stop it. These are little things that bring a smile to my face and make me want to keep designing.

The traditional box stitch is worked in 5 double crochet’s in each stitch and going over the chain from previous row. Your next row is worked as follows: single crochet in the first stitch, ch3 skip 3 stitches, single crochet in the last stitch, repeat across.

The traditional box stitch is a beautiful stitch to create. It adds a simple and elegant texture to your makes. The traditional and my modification box stitch are great for:

Blankets
Beanies
Totes
Garments of any kind

Today, I will be showing you how to do this modification using my Rising Hope Beanie.

The Rising Hope Beanie takes the box stitch a little further with a modification to it. I hope you will enjoy making this modification for your new beanie.

Rising Hope Beanie with K Hook and Faux Fur Pompom

When doing your box stitch modification, you notice that your Double Crochets are worked in the stitches and around the ch3 in row 3. But, in row 5 and up your double crochets are worked only in the stitches at the beginning of the row and end of the row, in the middle of the row’s the double crochets are worked in the ch3 space.

When doing your ExSc, make sure you pull up a little to give it height and look extended.

Yarn Needed

The yarn I used for this tutorial: worsted weight #4 with a Main Color and Contrasting Color. You may use any yarn in the same category as I used.

Hooks

The hooks I used to perform this tutorial: K (6.5mm) or L (8.00mm).

Other Materials Needed

Tapestry Needle (weaving in ends)
Scissors
Stitch Marker (optional)
Tape Measure

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
Hdc: half double crochet
ExSC: extended single crochet
R: row
**: to be repeated

Rising Hope Beanie w/ K hook and faux fur pompom

Now Let’s Begin…

Starting with Main Color.

After you have completed your brim of choice, either in sc or hdc, you can begin r1.

The stitch count for this stitch works best in multiples of 4, that why if you check out my pattern Rising Hope Beanie you will notice my stitch of 60.

R1: ch1, sc evenly across the top of the brim. Change to secondary color. Slip stitch to first stitch to join.

R2: ch1, sc in the first stitch, ch3, skip 3stitches, *sc in the next stitch, ch3, skip 3stitches*, sc in the last stitch. Change to primary color and slip stitch to the first stitch to join.

R3: ch2, sk first stitch, dc in the next 3stitches and around the ch3 from previous row, *sk the sc from previous row, dc in the next 3stitches and around the ch3 from previous row,* sk the 2nd to last sc, dc in the last 3stitches and around the ch3 from previous row, sk last sc, change to second color, slip stitch to first stitch to join.

R4: ch1, *ExSc in sk stitch from previous row, sk next 3stitches, ch3,* ExSc in the last stitch from previous row, change to primary color, slip stitch to first to join.

R5: ch2, skip 1st stitch, dc in the next 3stitches and around the ch3 from the previous row, *skip next sc from the previous row, place 3DC’S IN THE CH3 SPACE*, skip the 2nd to last sc, dc in the next 3stitches and around the ch3 from the previous row, skip last the sc. Change to secondary color and slip stitch to the first stitch to join.

You will continue this method in the same manner until you have desired rows.

Thank you for taking the time to stop by and look at this new way to do the box stitch.

Your support and love are very appreciative.

❤️❤️❤️

Much Love, MM_Crochet17

Posted on May 31, 2020December 14, 2021 by MM_Crochet17 — Leave a comment

Rising Hope Beanie, Free Crochet Pattern

Sometimes when you’re in a dark place, you tend to think you have been buried; what if you’ve been planted? — Mindfully Glam

When, I was young my only dream was to be in the medical field. Being a nurse or a doctor was my only passion, I ever wanted to accomplish and become. A care taker was what blinded me. It was the only thing I wanted, it literally was in my blood, and tired fighting for it.

When, I was in middle school, I had this teacher tell me, “you are never going to achieve anything in your life, you just need to quit while you are ahead, your dreams are going to be nothing.” For the longest time this is what was embedded in my brain. I couldn’t let it go nor let it become me, because it did.

I ended up proving myself and my teacher wrong. It was what I wanted to do four the longest time. Graduated high school and even after 3yrs of my graduation, I even went to college. A moment that I am forever happy for and proud to have done. A moment I saw the light and path, that was for me.

It made me see that there was a light at the end of tunnel for me. I was in college for 3yrs, I got my CNA (certified nursing assistant), it was the best feeling in the world to see I accomplished something and pass on my love of life to other people.

I was a proud CNA for 2.5yrs and it was the only thing that made me happy in this life. That changed in 2016, my life and path changed. I let that piece of me go. It was the absolutely hardest for me to do. But, again there was another light in my tunnel that made me see another path in this life of mine.

It was a couple days after Thanksgiving of 2016, that I picked up my first hook and a ball of precious yarn. If you could what I made it was something else, but with the practice and teaching myself patience, I can say I love what I do and what I make. It was the best change I made for my life. I haven’t stopped since.

In the beginning of March 2017, is when I started MM_Crochet17. It was a tough start trying every turn I can make to get my name out there to people. I just never gave up and kept pushing myself to where I am today. Being apart of an amazing community of designers, which inspire me each day.

All the inspiration I have witnessed, this Beanie was brought forth for me like a phoenix rising from the ashes to be reborn. To rise and conquer my dreams for this journey I am on.

Inspiration

I made this beanie as a contribute to my life. That there is always hope and you have to believe in yourself, no matter what life throws in your journey. If things don’t work out, you stumble, and you get told “NO”, just remember it’s just a sign that it wasn’t your time at that moment, don’t let it stop you. Those are the things I think about every time my eyes meet with this beanie, you have to Keep Rising Hope and keep going. There is still Hope. There is still a chance for you, brush it off, now it just means you have to work harder for the next opportunity. This isn’t the end of my journey, I will get my time, but this beanie gives me this Hope I need to understand.

Where The Name Came From

I posted a picture, as a way to help me name this pattern, nothing was coming forth. A handful of people helped and came up with some names that were amazing, but one I saw just stood out from @ryanparkerdesigns

I just couldn’t pass this name up, the perfect piece to fit my own puzzle.

The Yarn

Trying many possibilities. Looking over so many types in my stash, but I just couldn’t decide what to use. After, a day went by, I got to thinking, I need to keep more on the neutral side, than for me trying to make it pop. So, I grabbed my Red Heart Yarn Super Saver in White and Ombré in Anthracite and the colors just flowed through my vision. My color pallet was decided to design this pattern in the neutral state. The fiber choice for this pattern works best with Worsted Weight #4 yarn.

My Testers

I had some really amazing testers that brought this design more alive. They took this pattern to the next level, to help get where it is. I couldn’t have done without their skills, knowledge and expertise. So…. my thanks is to them.

Pattern

Purchase Printable PDF on Raverly 👈🏻 here

Pin It for Later

If you have any questions or concerns, please don’t hesitate to contact me, I am here to help you out in any way I can. You can email me at mm.crochet17@gmail.com it’s the best way to reach out to me.

Continue on reading to the Free Pattern 👇🏻

Deets on the Pattern

Difficulty Level

Advanced Beginner➕

Measurements

W: 8” H: 9”

Size

Adult Size only

Gauge

Since… I used measurements gauge isn’t a crucial step here. Brim: 17” wide and 2” high, before seaming it together. Final Measurements for Beanie: 8” wide and 9” high (with Pompom).

Hooks

Brim: H/8 (5.0mm)

Body: K (6.5mm) or L/8 (8.0mm)

Dec Rows: I/9 (5.5mm)

Yarn

Worsted Weight #4 ~ 133-250yds ~ 2 or 3 different colors to capture the look of the stitches and textures. (You may use any type of yarn in the same weight.)

Other Materials Required

Stitch Marker (optional)
Scissors
Tape Measure
Tapestry Needle (weaving in ends and cinching)
Yarn or Faux Fur Pompom (optional)
Product Tag (optional)

Pattern Notes

US Crochet Terminology. (Please don’t translate into any other language without contacting me first to do so.)

The ch’s at the beginning of the row, don’t count as stitches. Also, ch3’s don’t count as stitches.

This pattern is worked from starting with the brim, body and then decrease rows, finally cinching top closed.

The brim is worked in rows by ch’ing and turning, before beginning the next row.

The DC (double crochet) for the first three stitches and last three stitches, are worked in the stitches and also around the ch3’s. While the rest of the double crochet’s of the row are worked into the ch3 space, not going into the stitches of the previous row.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

Ch: chain
R: row
H: height
W: width
SC: single crochet
DC: double crochet
EXSC: extended single crochet
Dec: decrease
BLO: back loop only
SK: skip
**: to be repeated
YO: yarn over
FO: fasten off

Special Stitches

ExSC (extended single crochet): this stitch is completed just like that of the single crochet, the only difference is when this stitch is placed you will just pull up a little bit on your hook and yarn, to get that height. This stitch is also worked in each single crochet’s of previous rows.

Dec (decrease): there are several ways to make a decrease, the one I am going to explain here will simply be your traditional decrease. To begin, insert your hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, 2 loops on your hook, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, 3 loops on your hook, yo, pull through all 3 loops to complete your decrease.

Now Let’s Dive Right In…

Brim

Starting with your H (5.0mm) and ch8.

R1: sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in the remaining four ch’s. Ch1 and turn. (7)

R2: sc in the first stitch, sc in the BLO of the next 5ch’s, sc in the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. (7)

R3-65: repeat R2. (7)

After completing your last row, bring both ends together, simply slip stitch them together, and turn inside out (so your seam is on the inside). Your brim should measure 17” wide and 2” high.

Body Of Beanie

Change to your K(6.5mm) hook.

R1: ch1, sc in each stitch evenly across the top of the brim, change to your second color, slip stitch to first stitch to join. (65)

R2: ch1, sc in first stitch, sk next 3stitches, ch3, *sc in next stitch, sk next 3stitches, ch3,* sc in the last stitch, change to primary color, slip stitch to first stitch to join. (65)

R4: ch1, *ExSc in sk stitch from previous row, sk next 3stitches, ch3,* ExSc in the last stitch from previous row, change to primary color, slip stitch to first to join. (65)

R5: ch2, sk first stitch, dc in the next 3stitches and around the ch3 from previous row, *sk the sc from previous row, place 3dc’s in the ch3 space,* sk the 2nd to last sc, dc in the last 3stitches and around the ch3 from previous row, sk last sc, change to second color, slip stitch to first stitch to join. (65)

R6-17: Repeat rows 4&5. (65)

Brim-R17…. how it should look, with your K hook

Brim-R7….. how it should look with using your L hook

R18: ch1, ExSc in the first stitch from previous row, sc in the next 3stitches, *ExSc in the next stitch from previous row, sc in the next 3stitches,* ExSc in the last stitch from previous row, change to primary color (FO second color), slip stitch to first stitch to join. (65)

Decrease Rows

Change to your I/9 (5.5mm) Hook

R19: ch1, sc in each stitch, slip stitch to first stitch to join. (65)

R20: ch1, *sc in the next 3stitches, dec,* slip stitch to first to join. (52)

R21: ch1, *sc in the next 2stitches, dec,* slip stitch to first to join. (39)

R22: ch1, *sc in the next stitch, dec,* slip stitch to first stitch to join. (26)

R23: ch1, sc in each stitch, slip stitch to first stitch to join. (26)

FO and leave a long tail for cinching your beanie closed.

Cinching Up Your Beanie

You will be weaving in and out of each stitch. Once you get to end, begin pulling your yarn tight (not so tight that you don’t break your yarn, like I did), then simply tie a several knots to secure it. Weave in your ends and she is completed. At this point, you may add a Yarn or Faux Fur Pompom, it’s your choice.

Final Picture when completed with K hook and Faux Fur Pompom

Final Picture when completed with L hook and yarn Pompom

You’re all done. I just want to thank you for taking the time and stopping by to make this Beanie. Your support and love, that you have for this craft is very appreciated and means everything to me, just to keep my inspiration alive and thriving, to keep creating for all of you. Again, Thank You.

Much Love XOXO: Colt Tryon (MM_Crochet17)

Make sure you Pin This For Later, and if you make one I would love to see it, by tagging me on Instagram @mm_crochet17 using #risinghopebeanie and #mandmcrochet. I honestly can’t wait to see your Rising Hope Beanies and to share your work with everyone.

❤️❤️❤️

Posted on May 27, 2020December 14, 2021 by MM_Crochet17 — Leave a comment

Jagged Ridge Beanie, Free Crochet Pattern, MM_Crochet17

“When thinking about life, remember this: No amount of guilt can change the past and no amount of anxiety can change the future.” – Unknown

When, I was looking at designing this beanie, I had another envisioning was going for, but that idea went to the waste side and made me sad. It was that moment, when, I was cruising on Pinterest, at that moment that lightbulb clicked over and she was being born.

These are the moments that cease my heart into the creativeness that runs rapidly. These are the insistence’s that keep me alive. These are the moments that make me happy to be apart of an amazing community. These are the moments that make me happy to be a crocheter and a designer. These are the moments of seeing many people love what comes forth in my art.

A moment and a picture can change what I love, to make my hands keep going forth into the light.

With a little picture can make something and produce a design that wasn’t there before. We are all creative people, but we have to these depths to make them alive, maybe with a different outlook to what we call life. Sometimes just sometimes, life can be that turn that you need.

Life is just mysterious in how it works, thinks and acts. You have to be willing to make that effort. Halfway is all you life ask, before those footsteps fade into dust. Sometimes it’s gone before we knew it was there the whole time. Your effort is the price. Your effort is the key to making it out, because you have to know you’re not alone anymore in the fight, there is hope and time.

This design, as you can see, opened my eyes, to what we call life. Made me think, it’s time to reach out my hand. Letting people know that there is more to life, then me. This design keeps opening my eyes, every time I take a peer at it, shaping me back to my center core. Opening my heart and mind, letting me know there is more to life then myself.

Now, let’s get into making your own opening eyes to life beanie: Jagged Ridge Beanie.

Notes

This pattern is written in US Crochet Terminology.

The ch’s at the beginning of rows, don’t count as stitches.

The stitches use the concept of the Basket Weave Stitch.

This beanie is worked from the bottom up. Starting with the brim, doing a series of dec rows and cinching the top closed.

The stitch is created in a 3 row process, using Back Post Double Crochet and Front Post Double Crochet.

Hook

Brim: H/8 (5.0mm)

Body: K (6.5mm)

Yarn

Recommended yarn is worsted weight #4 of any kind.

Rest of Materials Needed

Scissors

Tape Measure

Yarn Needle

Stitch Marker (optional)

Yarn or Faux Fur Pompom (optional)

Measurements

H: 8.5” W: 8.5”

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

Ch: chain

SC: single crochet

DC: double crochet

FPDC: front post double crochet

BPDC: back post double crochet

R: row

H: height

W: width

FLO: front loop only

Dec: decrease

(): Stitch count

**: repeat

FO: fasten off

YO: yarn over

Special Stitches

FPDC: to begin, yo, going front from the previous row going behind the post (going right to left), yo, pull up a loop, 3 loops on your hook, yo, pull through first 2 loops, yo, pull through last 2 loops. Front post double crochet completed.

BPDC: to begin, yo, going behind from the previous row in front of the post (going right to left), yo, pull up a loop, 3 loops on the hook, yo, pull through first 2 loops, yo, pull through last 2 loops. Back Post Double Crochet completed.

Brim:

Using your 5.0mm hook and Ch7

R1: in second ch from hook sc and in the next 5 stitches. Ch1 and turn. (6)

R2: ch1, sc in first stitch, sc in the FL of the next four stitches, sc in the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. (6)

Repeat R2 until you have a total of 60 rows. Here you will take both ends and slip stitch them together. Turn inside out where seam is on the inside.

Body of Beanie

Switch to your K (6.5mm) hook.

R1: ch1, sc in each stitch across the brim. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (60)

R2: ch2, dc in each stitch. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (60)

R3: ch2, *FPDC around the next 3 stitches, BPDC around the next 3 stitches,* slip stitch to first stitch to join. (60)

R4-5: repeat r3. (60)

R6: ch2, *BPDC around the next 3 stitches, FPDC around the next 3 stitches,* slip stitch to first stitch to join. (60)

R7-8: repeat r6. (60)

R9: ch2, *FPDC around the next 3 stitches, BPDC around the next 3 stitches,* slip stitch to first stitch to join. (60)

R10-11: repeat r9. (60)

R12: ch2, *BPDC around the next 3 stitches, FPDC around the next 3 stitches,* slip stitch to first stitch to join. (60)

R13-14: repeat r12. (60)

R15: ch2, *FPDC around the next 3 stitches, BPDC around the next 3 stitches,* slip stitch to first to join. (60)

R16-17: repeat r15. (60)

R18: ch1, *sc in the next 3 stitches, dec,* slip stitch to first stitch to join. (48)

R19: ch1, *sc in the next 2 stitches, dec,* slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)

R20: ch1, *sc in next stitch, dec,* slip stitch to first to join. (24)

FO and leave a long tail for cinching up the top of your beanie.

Cinching Up Your Beanie

Start weaving in and out every second stitch. Pull yarn tight, to close the top of your beanie. Secure it with a knot and weave in your ends. You can top your beanie with Faux Fur Beanie or a yarn pompom.

Your newest beanie is completed. Ready for the wild world to see it. Thank you so much for taking the time to stop by and make this beanie. Your support is greatly appreciated.

XoXoXoXoXo—MM_Crochet17

Please Note: This pattern is for personal use only. The content and pictures contained within this pattern belong to MM_Crochet17. You’re more than welcome to sell your finished piece, but I do encourage you to link back to my website (www.mm-crochet17.com). Use #mandmcrochet and #jaggedridgebeanie when sharing your work on social media. If any questions or concerns may come up, please don’t hesitate to contact me, I am here to help.

Posted on April 12, 2020December 14, 2021 by MM_Crochet17 — Leave a comment

Strike Threw Snowcapped Earwarmer/Cowl/Beanie, Free Crohet Pattern, MM_Crochet17

”No One is you and that is your power.”
Shanna Skidmore

When you think that something wouldn’t work, but after many tries, the envision finally took place. I just wasn’t going to give up on this, not at all. Many rip it’s and rip it’s ran through this yarn. It’s just like life, when something doesn’t work and you think you have failed yourself, never give up, because trust me it’s there. Put it aside for the time being and pick it back up the day after. Trust me it will work.

If you know me the one things I am a sucker for are super chunky yarn, big hooks, and puffed stitches. They bring out the joy and happiness in my life. It makes me drool and wanting more. This yarn from Lion Brand Yarn in Hometown USA, was the perfect fit for this design and I couldn’t resist it, but you can use any super bulky #6 yarn that you have been eying. Plus, when I found my N hook from Boye Yarn Crafts my heart was in love at first sight. These two pairings are a dream come true. They make items that are super comfy, warm and squishy items, that just make my world a happy place.

I like big hooks and can’t lie. I like big yarn and I can’t lie. I like big puffy stitches and I can’t lie. These three sentences are all that go through my head, when I get to pick them up and work with them. It just makes me chuckle, while my husband just gives me a weird look each and every time. I look back and say, “What?” He tells, “I just love seeing you this happy with whatever you do.”

If you love super fast projects that work up quick, then you are going to enjoy making this. I wanted to incorporate stitches that were simple and easy to work. The single crochet is my best friend, as you can see it’s just a dream to work, as there isn’t much required knowledge. I then decided to add a little texture, by going into the back loop in the next two rows, to give the effect of a strike through. Which, gave its name.

When it came time doing my puff stitches, I wanted a little twist. Instead of doing the traditional puff with a ch1 to close it, I don’t close the stitch, as it groups each together. It just makes it easier for you to go into the stitch, plus gave it a more definite texture that speaks to me. Always love taking a twist and spin just to play on the textures.

One more thing to add before we get to the deets, this free crochet pattern comes as three patterns in one. Who doesn’t like that? I love it so much when this happens.

Difficulty/Skill Level

Beginner +

Yarn

Lion Brand Yarn Hometown #6 Super Bulky Yarn or any other comparable to recommended. (Beanie/Cowl ~100yds or 2 skeins) (Ear Warmer ~ 60yds or 1 skein)

Supplies/Materials

Hook: Boye Yarn Crafts N/15-10.00mm

Scissors

Tape Measure

Stitch Marker (optional)

Large Eyed Needle (for weaving in ends)

Yarn/Faux Fur Pompom (for beanie, optional)

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

Ch: chain

SC: single crochet

SCFCH: single crochet foundation chain

BLO: back loop only

R: row

PS: Puff Stitch

YO: Yarn Over

FO: Fasten Off

**: repeat

W: Width

H: Height

Special Stitches

Puff Stitch: yo, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, 3 loops on hook, yo, insert hook back into same stitch, yo, pull up a loop, 5 loops on your hook, yo, pull through all 5 loops, DON’T CH1, repeat.

SCFCH press here to watch a video from http://www.glamour-4-you.com, this really helped me for getting the hang of the foundation ch.

Measurements

Ear warmer: W-9″ H-4″

Cowl/Beanie: W-9.25″(second puff row) H-9″

Additional Notes

US crochet terminology used.

Ch’s don’t count as a stitch.

In the pattern below I have included three ways you can enjoy this pattern, just to have a little versatility to enjoy it.

If you aren’t comfortable with doing the SCFCH, you are more than welcome to ch36, join ch to the first ch (making sure you have no twist), ch1 and sc in same stitch and repeat across. Join to first stitch and carry on with r2 of the pattern.

Pattern

R1: 36SCFCH and join together.

R2: ch1, sc in the blo same stitch and each blo of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)

R3: repeat r2. (36)

R4: ch2, puff in the same stitch and each of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)

R5: ch1, sc in the same stitch and each of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)

R6: ch1, sc in blo the same stitch and each blo of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)

R7: repeat r6. (36)

Here you can FO if you could like to have it as an ear warmer or continue onto the Cowl or Beanie.

R8: ch2, puff in the same stitch and each of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)

R9: ch1, sc in the same stitch and each of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)

R10: ch1, sc in the blo of same stitch and each blo of next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)

R11: repeat r10. (36)

R12: ch2, puff in same stitch and each of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)

R13: ch1, sc in same stitch and each of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)

R14: ch1, sc in the blo of same stitch and each blo of next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)

R15: repeat r14. (36)

R16: ch1, sc in the same stitch and each of the next 35 stitches. Slip stitch to first stitch to join. (36)

Here you may FO and weave in ends to leave it as a cowl, or you may carry onto the last instruction to make the beanie.

For making the Beanie, FO and leave a long tail for cinching the top closed. Now, grab your large eyed needle and thread it with the long tail still attached to your hat. You will be weaving your needle in and out every other front loop, when you get to the beginning, pull your yarn tight closing the top of your beanie. Tie a knot to secure it and weave in your ends. Here you may attach any kind of pompom you would like or you can leave it as is.

Thank you for taking the time to stop by and make this new addition. I really hoped you enjoy it and can’t wait to see what you come up with. Your support and love is really appreciative.

XOXOXO —MM_Crochet17

Please Note

This pattern is for personal use only. Please don’t copy or paste, resell, claim, or recreate any portion of this pattern, in full or sections as it belongs to me. Please don’t use, resell, recreate, or claim any picture as your own, as they belong to me. You may sell what you make from this pattern, but I encourage you to credit back to me as the pattern designer, by tagging my website (mm-crochet17.com), tagging me on social media by using @mm_crochet17 and #mandmcrochet on Instagram, on Facebook @MandM-Crochet.

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Now …. Let’s start making MOONS

Attaching Your Moon …

Attaching Moon right on ….

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Seaming

Cinch Bottom Closed

Now, Stuff your pumpkin here to the top.

Now … Let’s cinch the top close

Now ….. Let’s shape the Pumpkin 🎃

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Keep repeating that same process until you reach the end

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FO. Weave in your ends.

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Again, thank you for all your support. It means a lot. Now, off to design a new creation. xoxo

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